Walking the Beautiful Shambles

Life inside Dhobi Ghat, Mumbai’s open-air laundromat.

The line of concrete wash pens
Living life in colors

Imagine a huge living canvas comprised of 10 million colours.  That’s what we witnessed as we stood on the viewing gallery overlooking the Dhobi Ghat. Built in 1890 during the British Raj, the Dhobi Ghat is an open air laundromat, the objective being wash clothes in the open air making life easier for those dedicated to the task.  Rising right behind this vast laundry complex one sees tall posh buildings that evidence the stark contrast of living standards prevailing in India. 

Our chauffeur drops us at the entry point where we are met by Praveen, our local guide who resides in one of the small cubical rooms in Dhobi Ghat with his brother. 

It was 10AM as we entered.  We could see the dhobis (washers) had finished up their day of working out, beating the clothes on concrete pens. Perhaps we arrived at the best time as it was more a happy lively mood.  Some of them getting ready to go out in clean clothes.  Some were busy getting their hair and/or beard groomed.  A few of were ironing.  Some making fresh karak chai.   While others were having their meals for the morning. 

multitasking
Press Wallah with charcoal iron
Ready for dryer
random
breakfast break
Traditional & rustic BUT efficient

Around 200 families live at Dhobi Ghat, and the occupation being passed down through the generations. For 18 to 20 hours each day, over 5000 people flog, scrub, dye and bleach clothes on concrete wash pens, dry them on ropes, neatly press them and transport the garments to different parts of the city. 

Thousands of garments are laundered each day. Some of the wealthier dhobis have given up manual cleaning and use large mechanical washing and drying machines. The dhobis collect clothes from all corners of the city, from Colaba to Virar. Their biggest clients are neighbourhood laundries, garment dealers, wedding decorators and caterers, and mid-sized hotels and clubs. It is an occupation that they have pursued for hundred years doing it diligently. 

There is magic in their water, even the white becomes bright white 🙂

In fact in 2011 Dhobi Ghat was recognized in the  Guinness Book of World Records entry for ‘most people hand-washing clothes at a single location’.

If Dhobi Ghat is not on your bucket list it should be. Email us for a guided photo walking tour of this iconic slice of Mumbai heritage with a local who lives & work inside Dhobi Ghat. Meanwhile enjoy the photographic journey of the amazing place. (see gallery below)

This blog is our unsolicited personal opinion. By no means, a requested review from the owners.

Robindro Saikhom
robin@serenejourneys.co
www.serenejourneys.co

Robin is the founder of Serene Journeys, an lgbtq+ owned & operated travel company based in Delhi & Bangkok, a travel curator & a travel photographer, exploring the beauty of South and Southeast Asia.

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